ANCHORS: Clean, inspect and organize your anchors, chains, and locker. Pay close attention to signs of wear and to the connections between components.

BATTERY: Remove the battery from the boat and store it in a dry location where it won't freeze. Top off the battery's charge after 60 days.

CORROSION: Electrical connections, various metal-to-metal fasteners and non-stainless steel parts all need attention to survive the elements. From a safety standpoint, corroded fasteners are a high priority. Spray all fasteners for protection, then replace any damaged units. Don't neglect stainless steel components such as rails and instrument casings, either.

DRY-OUT TIME: Open all holds, compartments and storage areas. Remove cushions for the best results. The right time to do this is after a final wash down.

ELECTRONICS: During the winter, it is best to remove all electronics and store them in a dry, climate-controlled environment to prevent condensation and an invasion by nesting insects. Coat electrical connections with Corrosion Block and spray metal screws with a burst of WD40. Chances are it's also time to replace your cigarette lighter port, since this component rarely lasts more than one boating season if heavily used.

FUEL SYSTEMS: Contrary to commonly held opinions, do not top off your gas tanks. Modern fuel tanks constructed of aluminum or plastic won't rust when condensation collects. However, it is smart to use a fuel stabilizer. Use one that's a quality, marine-grade additive or, better yet, one that's specified by your engine manufacturer. Never use fuel stabilizers and conditioners designed for automotive applications, and avoid any fuel additive with alcohol.

GEAR & ACCESSORIES: Take all gear out of the holds and conduct a thorough examination. Check the dates on flares and fire extinguishers, making certain the latter are fully pressurized. Examine life jackets for rips and tears, and air them out to prevent mildew formation. Be sure straps, buckles and stays are intact. Don't overlook the first-aid kit, galley gear and tool kit. Replace, replenish or repair as necessary. Clean dirty fenders and rub rails. By doing this, you will save the expense of having to replace them.

HOLDING TANK: Draining the holding tank system is the first step in winterizing our boat's head. Empty it at a local pump-out station and then clean the head's Raw-water inlet valve. It's also a good idea to attach a note to the head so no one uses it. With dual-discharge systems, adjust your selector valve to discharge overboard. Take the inlet hose from the thru-hull fitting and place it in a bucket of nontoxic antifreeze. Pump the head, which will flush any remaining water. When the discharge color is the same shade as the antifreeze, stop pumping. Turn the selector valve to pump into the holding tank, making sure that some antifreeze makes its way there. Replace the inlet hose on the thru-hull fitting, tighten all hose clamps, pump the holding tank dry and leave the thru-hull valves closed.

HULL INSPECTION: Examine the hull for minor dings, spider web cracks and serious scratches. Minor scratches can be repaired with rubbing compounds, while large scratches and cracks (more than one-eighth-inch wide or three to four inches long) are better left to professionals. However, you can eliminate small insults to the gel coat with a little elbow-grease. They must be opened with the tip of a sharp tool since unthickened gel coat, with its house-paint consistency, bridges small cracks instead of filling them. Use a sharp tool to probe the crack's edges, removing all loose gel coat. Be sure you can carefully control the tool, otherwise you might cause more damage. Open and clean the crack, then allow the boat to dry overnight to remove moisture within the laminate.

INBOARD ENGINES: While many off-season procedures can be performed with relative ease, the power units and attendant components pose complex problems for average boat owners. Most manufacturers strongly recommend that engine lay-up be performed by an authorized dealer. This is especially true for inboards, because it is difficult for most boaters to check a stuffing box. Replacing the air filters and oil filters is less difficult. A visual check of all hoses is a prudent precaution. Stern drives require similar care. In addition to antifreeze, you should add an oil stabilizer as recommended by the manufacturer to keep the engine in tip top shape.

JACK: Perhaps the most overlooked (and hopefully unused) piece of equipment in your boating package is the trailer jack. While a good jack requires little service, it is wise to keep it properly oiled and to test its lifting capacity.

KICK THE TIRES: Yes, it's a good idea to kick the tires on your trailer. It serves no purpose but does remind you to check the air pressure and valve stems. A generous coating of silicone rubber treatment or Armor All will preserve and protect your tires. For long winters, regularly roll the tires to new positions so they don't develop flat spots. Boats stored in garages can be jacked up to achieve a partial spin of the tires. Yard boats can be rolled or pulled forward about a foot. If you have locking lug nuts, lube and torque them to prevent loosening.

LINES: Line is the connection to land, the dock, the mooring buoy, the towing vessel and more. Clean all lines with water, coil them and replace if necessary.

MANUALS: Most major marine manufacturers list excellent maintenance and layover steps m owner's manuals. Consider your owner's manual (all owner's manuals) to be the primary guide to hands-on maintenance and repair. Manuals not only provide answers to your questions, but also let you know how to maintain your warranty successfully.

MSD's: In cold climates, the marine-sanitation-device system's plumbing is vulnerable to freezing. It's recommended that you drain this system as much as possible and then put in a nontoxic antifreeze. The antifreeze provides extra protection since it may not be possible to remove water from every nook and cranny. If you remove any hoses or enlighten any valves to do this, make sure to reconnect them to avoid leaks when spring arrives.

NAVIGATION LIGHTS: Proper mounting and bulb strength are crucial to meet legal requirements. Boats less than 39 feet long need a port red sidelight, a green starboard sidelight and a white all-around light. If your boat has a bicolor light that combines both sidelights, make sure it is aimed so that the colors don't leak to the wrong side. Remember that sidelights must be visible for one nautical mile, while the all-around light should be visible for two. Replace the lights with bulbs whose wattage and brightness are high enough to conform to these mandates. Check the light socket to be sure that corrosion isn't blocking the electric signal.

OTHER OILS: Inboards and stern drives need transmission-gear oil. Most inboards and some stern drives have internal hydraulic transmissions that must be carefully drained. While you should consult the owner's manual for precise instructions, hydraulic transmission units are connected to an engine-mounted oil cooler by a pair of hoses. Position a drain pan underneath and then disconnect the lower hose from the cooler at the transmission. The hose is filled with oil and will also drain. After properly disposing of the oil, reinstall the hose and refill the transmission with the manufacturer's recommended transmission fluid. Avoid generic or automotive gear oil, which may damage the transmission.

OUTBOARDS: The main steps to servicing and preparing an outboard motor for long term storage are not extremely difficult. Add a fuel conditioner and run the motor for 15 minutes to get the conditioner mixed into the system. Fog the cylinders by running a special fogging oil through the carburetor, removing the plugs and injecting the oil into the cylinders, or by using direct-injection fittings near the primer bulb. Drain the lower unit and refill it. Grease all fittings. Pull the prop, check the blades for damage, relive and replace.

PRESERVE WOOD & TEAK: Protecting wood and teak so that they retain their original colors vastly improves a boat's appearance. Use a high grade marine varnish to keep out ultraviolet radiation and moisture. While you should follow the varnish manufacturer's instructions, applying it is simple and normally involves rubbing at least a few coats of varnish over the wooden or teak surface. Check in-instructions carefully. Depending on the varnish, you may need to prepare it with a thinner before application.

PROPS: For maximum performance, frequently inspect the leading edges of prop blades for gouges, nicks, rough spots and cracks. Minor nicks and gouges can be blended into the surrounding area with a machinist's general-purpose file. Use fine sandpaper to carefully complete the blending and achieve a smooth surface. Remember to file and sand parallel with the blade, not perpendicular to it. Serious cracks and damage should only be repaired by an authorized dealer. Check for bent prop blades by placing a ruler against the anti ventilation plate so that it touches one blade's tip. Slowly turn the propeller while firmly holding the ruler in place. If the blades intersect the plane of the ruler during this rotation, they are bent. They should be straightened or replaced, and all repairs should be handled by a dealer.

QUICK INSPECTIONS: Do this for fuel filters, hoses, clamps, connectors, belts and electrical lines. Then move to tow chains, trailer-lighting harnesses, anchor lights and running lights. Don't forget to clean out the raw-water strainers.

REQUIRED SERVICE: Some operations can only be performed by a qualified service shop, especially with fuel-injected engines. Schedule annually required service in the fall, as opposed to the busy spring.

SCRUB: Scrub the deck, hull, rails and anything else that needs to be shiny and attractive. There are a number of cleaners on the market that easily remove dirt and restore a healthy, good-as-new appearance. Check the contents to make sure there are no abrasive chemicals and use soft cloths so as not to scratch surfaces.

STOCK UP: Obtain parts, accessories, tools and supplies to complete your off-season maintenance. The best way to do this is to create a list and refer to it from year to year.

STRAINERS: Raw-water strainers can be found in a boat's engine, generator, refrigerator, freezer and many air conditioners. Whether made of plastic or bronze, they should be periodically checked for damage. Disassemble the strainer and remove the plastic sight glass. If the component has any cracks or damage, it's due for a replacement. Rinse the strainer and rub it clean. Next, check the ends of the strainer's stainless-steel mesh, which may be compressed. If so, replace the strainer (or it won't function). Inspect all seals and grease them (if in good shape) or replace them (if damaged).

TRAILER: During the final trip of the season, it's a good idea to make a thorough inspection of the trailer. Check the bunks, rollers and frame for cracks and corrosion. Replace bunks as necessary and lube rollers. Top off fluid in the brake reservoirs and thoroughly grease every axle bearing. Inspect the hitch to make sure there are no cracks in the weld joints or the links of the safety chains. Check the electric-wiring harness for any signs of corrosion and replace trailer lights with new bulbs.

ULTRAVIOLET PROTECTION: Wax, sealant and general protectants for surfaces are important. Rely on quality, brand-name products.

VEXATIONS: Don't make the job more complicated than necessary. Remember that boating is supposed to be fun. The best advice for keeping blood pressure low is to use the right tools for the job at hand.

WHEEL BEARINGS: If your trailer has bearing protectors with grease fittings, get a grease gun and pump new, high-grade marine grease into the bearing until the spring-load piston is approximately one-eighth-inch from its seated position. If you do not have bearing protectors with grease fittings, now is a perfect opportunity to upgrade. If you do not have bearing protectors, check your bearings and repack them with grease.

WATERLINE STAINS: Discoloration at the hull's waterline can be difficult to remove. These stains, commonly three to four inches wide, are caused by algae that insert themselves into the porous gel coat. Using polish and wax to cover the stain can permanently seal the discoloration into the hull. You need a cleaner capable of penetrating these pores to provide a deep cleansing.

XEROX: It's a smart idea to keep original owner's manuals, quick-inspection checklists and other important documents in a filing cabinet at home. Make Xerox copies for instant reference and store them onboard in plastic bags or small containers. If something gets lost during the hustle and bustle of boating, replacements are only a photocopy away.

YOU'RE ALMOST DONE: Don't forget such ancillary systems as fresh water, bilge, circuit breakers, fuses and lighting. One of the problems with don't-forget tips is that they can get lost in the shuffle unless you jot them down. Start a maintenance log and jot down all your decommissioning procedures so that you know where to begin in the spring.